NYT Cooking: This brisket is pretty close to Nirvana for Texas barbecue fanatics who rely on backyard equipment. No smoker is needed, no mops or mesquite — just time and fire and a reliable thermometer. The long, low smoke replicates the results of the bigger, hotter pits used in Central Texas: fork-tender, peppery meat, each bite bathed in drippings and juice. Use potato rolls or ...